Simple cord keeper crochet pattern

This is a great project for using up smaller amounts of yarn.. the larger size only uses about 6 1/2 yards.. the smaller one approximately 5 1/4 yards

 I used several different brands of yarn that varied from medium to a thicker worsted weight, 100% acrylic to give the cord keeper a bit of stretchability 

H 5 mm hook

Accurate gauge really isn't essential to this project as it is pretty easy to see the overall size.. 

That being said mine come out about 1 1/2 inches wide ( both the same  ) and about 4 inches long for the 16 row longer size and  approximately 3 inches long .. a tad under..  for the 13 row shorter size. 

This pattern is beginner friendly.... the hardest part is the beginning button loop with 3 SC going into the slip stitch joined loop .. which is made easier simply by making the first chain looser.. 

 it can easily be adjusted in length by adding or subtracting sc rows.... keep in mind the button loop when closed will add a bit of length as it stretches some what

The button loop can be adjusted as needed to suit the size of the buttons you choose..... I used buttons that are close to 1 inch or slightly over.. as the buttons are the main focal point have some fun choosing yours, I used a bunch of random ones I have picked up over the years

6 1/2 yards of worsted weight acrylic yarn 

H 5 mm hook

1 approximately 1 inch button 

American terms 

ch - chain

dec - single crochet decease in next two stitches 

inc - single crochet twice in next stitch

sc - single crochet

sl st - slip stitch

1) keeping first ch loose ch 8,  sl st into first ch made going through both loops of ch, ch 1    ... Check to see if loop goes around your button, you're looking for a easy slide over but not too loose, adjust loop size as needed 

2) in same stitch as the joining stitch sc 3, ch 1 turn ( 3 sts )

3) inc, sc 1, inc, ch 1, turn ( 5 sts) 

4) sc 5, ch 1 turn ( 5 sts )

For longer size 

5 - 15) do as row 4

Shorter size 

5 - 12) do as row 4 

 

or

Repeat row 4 untill you almost reach the length you want

For all lengths 

dec, SC 1, dec ( 3 sts) 

 

Fasten off..... 

I like to use the tail end to stitch down the button if you choose to do this leave a tail 10 to 12 inches long

Stitch button in center of second to last row, weave in ends

That's it fast and easy ... plus useful 

Pictured above is the shorter cord keeper, below is the longer one with the same cord ( 6 foot ) .. either would work for holding this size cord however the shorter one is pretty close to it's limit 

Goddess crochet doll pattern

Goddess dolls 

Hook size US G 

Approximately 26 yards of worsted weight yarn  

in the photo above all goddesses are stitched using the same hook size and stitch count.. all yarns are listed as #4 worsted weight, however there is a clear size difference... Just like softness of yarn varies from from brand to brand so does the thickness .. the Autumn red was made using Caron Simply Soft, green is a discontinued yarn by big twist that was their version of Simply Soft, blue is Caron's one pound

American terms 

ch = chain

dec = single crochet invisible decrease,  slid hook through front loop of next two stitches yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over pull through both loops 

inc = 2 single crochet in the indicated stitch

sc = single crochet

Worked in spiral, no of joining rounds throughout pattern 

1) ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

2) inc     (12sts)

3) inc, sc1    (18sts)

4-6) sc 

7) dec, sc1   (12sts)

 To invisible decrease go through front loop only of first stitch indicated do not yarn over go through front loop of next stitch yarn over pull through both loops yarn over again and finish the stitch give a slight tug to make sure the stitch is snug to the work

 

When first doing invisible decreases take note of your next stitch it is easy to lose sight of which stitch you need to work next, it's a good idea to count your stitches before going on to the next round 

8) dec, sc1   (8sts)    Stuff fairy firm

9) sc through front loop only

10) inc, sc1  (12sts)

11) inc, sc1  (18sts)

12) sc

13) dec, sc1   (12sts)

14) sc through front loop

15) inc  (24sts)

16) sc

When working the decreases of the bottom be mindful of keeping your stitches low, it will give you a much smoother finish 

17) dec, sc4  (20sts)

18) dec, sc3   (16sts)

19) sc

20) dec, sc2    (12sts)

21) sc           Stuff 

 

When stuffing a tight area it's easy to lose stitches, to avoid this be sure to put in a stitch holder or just slide it in with you round marker.. 

22) dec, sc1  (8sts) 

23) sc

24) dec  (4sts)

Fasten off, cut yarn leaving a tail about 6 inches long. Place tail on yarn needle, weave through last stitches through the front loop only going from bottom to top for each one, pull snuggly 

 

Go through the center stitches to weave in the tail, going out one side a few rounds down.. 

I like to catch a couple of stitches and go back in a few times

Fasten off weave through remaining stitches pull tight, weave in end 

Arms

1) ch5, turn

2) sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc3, ch1 turn

3-24) sc4, ch1, turn

Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to seam the long edges together, sew on using photo as a guide. 

 

I find it easier to quickly stitch up the arms panel by placing something to stitch around in it... in this photo I am using a solid straw but have used knitting needles and pencils

Before stitching on arms, turn your goddess around looking for the best placement..

I stitch the bottom of the arm first then go through the arm just above that in stead of going around the edge of the arm.. gives it a smother finish 

Pattern without photos or tips 

1) ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

2) inc     (12sts)

3) inc, sc1    (18sts)

4-6) sc 

7) dec, sc1   (12sts)

8) dec, sc1   (8sts)    Stuff fairy firm

9) sc through front loop only

10) inc, sc1  (12sts)

11) inc, sc1  (18sts)

12) sc

13) dec, sc1   (12sts)

14) sc through front loop

15) inc  (24sts)

16) sc

17) dec, sc4  (20sts)

18) dec, sc3   (16sts)

19) sc

20) dec, sc2    (12sts)

21) sc           Stuff 

22) dec, sc1  (8sts) 

23) sc

24) dec  (4sts)

Fasten off leaving tail long enough to thread through remaining stitches 

Arms

1) ch5, turn

2) sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc3, ch1 turn

3-24) sc4, ch1, turn 

Fasten off leaving long tail for seaming edges together and stitching to body. See photo above for placement. 

All rights reserved, items made with this pattern may be sold. 

Mini wreaths

 A cute easy ornament or gift topper etc. 

I saw an magazine article about quick Christmas ideas long before the internet but don't recall which magazine,  this as it had to be a good 30, maybe 35 years ago or more... I highly doubt that magazine was the only one who was ever printed the idea, so I'm sure you'll find more ideas on how make and decorate them out there on the net.  

They are a cute easy project however so a revisit to the idea I thought was in order, I actually have been meaning to do this for years.. time kept getting away from me every holiday season.. I put a ring in my purse catch all bag as a reminder.. and this year it worked, I found it again just in time lol 

In the article if I remember correctly they used the ring from around a milk jug, as we don't drink milk I grabbed some off of water and a couple of soda bottles that my mother was a recycling. They are a bit smaller but I think it adds to their cuteness 

Just Pop off the ring

Grab some yarn and a corresponding book, in this case I used Red Heart Paddy Green worsted weight and a G 4.0 mm hook

Single crochet around the ring until it's as full as you like, slip stitch to the first single crochet stitch 

Chain a loop, I did 10 chains for these as I was planning on using them for gift toppers and didn't need it very long

Slip stitch to the next single crochet or base of the chain stitches.. 

Weave in tails on the backside.. wreath is ready to be decorated.. I tried using small amounts of scrap yard to add colonial knots (see photo above ), French knots should work just as well, I like the bit thicker colonial knots myself... This does take a fair amount of time though, so I ended up glueing sequins and a bit of  red yarn for a ribbon to them using craft glue.. maybe next year i will think of it early enough for doing all of them with knots or beads lol 

My take on chill pills

I was asked if I could make a chill pill by a friend.. I hadn't seen any up to that point but knew right away how I wanted to make mine.. quick and simple... what a fun idea to use up some scrap yarn.. so I set down my embroidery and and made a few ..

I have since seen some really cute ones, some with little faces, but much bigger than what came out with, so if you're looking for a bigger one do a quick online search, there seems to be quite a few out there..

They can be made with just about any size yarn and coordinating hook.. most of my scrap yarn is worsted weight so that's what I went with.. I had started with blue and white but the blue came up a bit short so I grabbed the next larger ball in a solid color, pretty sure it's mulberry by Red heart.. mix and match all your scraps

 

10 yards approximately of worsted weight yarn for both colors

G / 4.0 mm hook

yarn needle

exact gauge is not essential to this project

worked in a spiral so don't join throughout 

written in American terms

ch = chain 

dec = decrease, I use a invisible decrease described below with photos however you can use any decrease you like

inc = increase, two stitches in indicated stitch

sc = single crochet

sts = stitches

* * = repeat instructions between as many times as indicated

1 ) ch2, sc 6 times into the first st to form a circle ....( you can use a magic circle or any other startup for circles that you prefer) place a marker for easy   round counting, moving it along as you go

 

2 ) inc in each stitch ( 12 stitches )

 

3 ) *inc, sc1* repeat to end of round ( 18 stitches )

4-10) sc all stitches .. I tried making some with 8 rounds of sc but personally I think the slightly smaller one looks better..

after you reach the last sc,  stitch slip stitch into the next stitch, cut yarn and fasten off .. keep yarn tails on the inside, no need to weave in these

 

 

11-17 ) Picking up the next color put a slip knot on your hook, place your hook through the stitch three stitches before your last stitch, this will be the new starting point of each round so place a stitch marker in this stitch when the stitch is completed

 

    

                                              yarn over and pull up a loop,

yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the stitch

 

 

 

sc until you get to the slip stitch of the previous round,sc in the top of that stitch

 

 

  being careful not to single crochet in the bottom of that stitch but going to the next stitch, for beginners it can be a bit harder to spot and easy to add an extra stitch here, sc as normal for the rest of the rounds

 

This round starts the two decrease rounds

18 ) *dec, sc1* to end of round ( 12 sts ) see below explanation of  dec

 

I use a invisible decrease, do this by sliding your hook through the first loop only of the next stitch then repeat with the following stitch without doing a yarn over for either,

 

then yarn over and pull the loop through both loops on your hook

 

Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook decrease completed

After the first decrease round add your stuffing

19 ) dec to end of round, cut yarn leaving about 6 inches, fasten off, place yarn tail on yarn needle,

weave with through front loop of each stitch, pull snug 

 

Take your needle down through the center of the stitches you just pulled tight and pop out the side, go back in ( keeping to the same color as tail ) and pop out again on the other side, cut yarn close to the side of chill pill

 

 

I did a quick back stitch in contrasting color to spell out chill

That it your done